Designer Theyskens captures cool looks for Theory

SAMANTHA CRITCHELL AP Fashion Writer Published:

NEW YORK (AP) -- A little leather is better when it comes from the cool guy, and Olivier Theyskens has brought with him to Theory a cool that only this celebrated Belgian-born designer could.

It's that hipster factor and Theyskens insider following that allowed those slouchy shorts and pants on the runway of what is really a label that's a department-store staple. But those looks were scattered amid a collection that hit many of the trends to come out of New York Fashion Week so far, including military, menswear styles for women, and metallics. They moved the needle just far enough ahead while still being wearable.

A military-inspired jacket with a strong shoulder, and leather and fur details caught the eye of model Coco Rocha, who sat in the front row. It's at the top of her shopping list for fall, she said.

Theyskens, who showed his collection Monday, also offered fuzzy sweaters paired with loose leather pants, a soft turtleneck worn with a slick leather skirt and leather coveralls. There were some sharp metallic outfits, too, embracing a little edge in a shrunken blazer with copper strips or a sheer skirt with gold details.

And sheer fabrics have long been one of his signatures, falling nicely into another emerging must-have for next season. His best version was a sheer long evening skirt worn with a fitted jacket.